2012
22
lut
4000km along Chile
Chile, Arica
Przejechano 77992 km
Podrozujemy przez Chile, z poludnia na polnoc, ponad 4000 kilometrow. Pierwsza czesc z Patagoni do Santiago pokonujemy droga powietrzna. Samolot w Chile dziala nieco jak autobus, czyli w ramach jednego lotu zdarzaja sie przystanki. Nasz lot z Punta Arenas do Santiago ma 2 przystanki, jeden w Puerto Natales, drugi w Puerto Montt. Na kazdym przystanku pasazerowie wsiadaja i wysiadaja, my czekamy na kolejny wzlot i ladowanie. Troche sie kreci w glowie po takim lataniu, kilka startowan i ladowan w przeciagu czterech godzin.
Pierwsze 2 tysiace km pokonujemy w niecale 4 godziny. Pozostale 2000 kilometrow z Santiago do Arica (pod granica z Peru) przez godzin trzydziesci. Skusilismy sie na autobus z dwoch powodow.... Po pierwsze, by doswiadczyc luksusow i wygod chilijskich autobusow dlugodystansowych,o ktorych kraza legendy. Drugi powod to slynna pustynia Atacama na polnocy Chile.
Autobus rzeczywiscie dosc wygodny, z rozkladanym siedzeniem (nawet da sie wyspac). Po drodze obsluga autobusu serwuje posilki, nie jest zle. A pustynia sie zaczyna zaraz po opuszczeniu stolicy i trwa do granicy z Peru. Zmieniaja sie tylko odcienie pustyni. Czasem jest piaszczyscie, czasem kamieniscie. Caly czas pusto. Po przebyciu Chile wzdłuż mamy wrazenie, ze w tym kraju poza stolica i kilkoma miastami na polnocy nie ma nic a nic (poza pustynia).
W Santiago dowiedzielismy sie przez przypadek, ze narodowa potrawa Chilijczykow sa hotdogi. Troche trudno w to bylo uwierzyc na poczatku ale po kilku dniach spedzonych w stolicy mozemy potwierdzic, ze to fakt. Hotdogowe budki, stragany, hotdogowe restauracje, bardziej i mniej luksusowe, wylacznie hotdogowe. Hotdogi z avokadowym sosem, na dwadziescia roznych sposobow. Kto by pomyslal?
Kolejne zaskoczenie kulinarne. Wczesniej, w Buenos Aires, zaskoczyla nas ilosc pizzerii (zamiast oczekiwanych slynnych argentynskich stekow), na kazdym rogu pizzeria. Z naszych obserwacji wynika, ze tradycyjna kuchnia argentynska (i chilijska) w duzych miastach przegrywa niestety z fastfoodem.
Miasto Arica na granicy z Peru mialo byc naszym jednodniowym postojem przed wyprawa w kierunku Cuzco i Machu Picchu... Niestety na naszej drodze do Peru pojawily sie...
...miny
tak, miny przeciwpancerne i przeciwpiechotne, roznorodne...
i tak zamiast wyprawy do Cuzco utknelismy w Arice przez tydzien. Skad sie wziely miny na drodze? Otoz najwieksze od dekad opady deszczu w gornych regionach Andow rozwscieczyli rzeki, ktore w rezultacie wyplukaly zakopane w latach siedemdziesiatych (podczas granicznych konfliktow miedzy Peru a Chile) miny. I tak oto zamkneito nam przed nosem granice...
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We have travelled Chile from the south to the very north – over 4000 kilometers. The first half of the journey from Patagonia to Santiago was made by plane. Flying in Chile is a memorable experience as the plane functions similar to the bus. There were a few stops before we reached our destination. On each stop some passengers are disembarking some are boarding the plane. Few takeoffs and landings within one flight can actually give you a headache!
We made first 2 thousand kilometers in 4 hours. The next 2 thousand kilometers from Santiago to Arica (at the border with Peru) took 30 hours. We were tempted to try a bus this time out of few reasons… Firstly to challenge the myth about the luxurious and comfy Chilean long distance buses. Secondly to see and experience the Atacama desert. And thirdly, of course because of the money.
The bus turned out to be comfy indeed. With foldable chair of a proper size it was even possible to have a decent nap. On the way we were served 2 dinners (twice non vegetarian, so it meant 4 portions for me). And the desert actually seemed to start right after Santiago and last until the Peruvian border. The only noticeable change to the landscape was shades of the desert. At times it was sandy, at times rocky. Always empty till the horizon. What we concluded after crossing Chile is that except for few cities it is a country of vast emptiness.
While in Santiago we accidentally discovered a traditional Chilean meal which was to our big surprise a hotdog. It is hard to believe but we can confirm that after roaming around Santiago for a couple of days hotdog stalls and fastfood outlets can be found all around the city. Hotdogs are offered in at least 15 different configurations. Most often with avocado sause. Who would think of Chile as a hotdog country?
It is actually our second culinary discovery in South America. Earlier during our trip we were surprised how difficult it is to find famous Argentinian steaks in Buenos Aires and how many pizzerias are visible all around town instead.
The near-border town of Arica was supposed to be a one day stop before heading towards Cuzco and Machu Piccu in Peru but unfortunately and unexpectedly the border was closed right in front of us due to…
…The landmines
Yes, that is correct. Anti-tank mines, anti-troops mines, all sorts of mines that were flushed onto the roads in the border region due to heavy torrential rains. Apparently some of the rivers carried the mines and that endangered the rail and road bridges. You are probably wondering what the hell are the mines doing nowadays at the Peru-Chile border. As we learned they were buried in the ground few decades ago during border conflict between these two countries and by today some are still waiting to be removed…
Crap!
Pierwsze 2 tysiace km pokonujemy w niecale 4 godziny. Pozostale 2000 kilometrow z Santiago do Arica (pod granica z Peru) przez godzin trzydziesci. Skusilismy sie na autobus z dwoch powodow.... Po pierwsze, by doswiadczyc luksusow i wygod chilijskich autobusow dlugodystansowych,o ktorych kraza legendy. Drugi powod to slynna pustynia Atacama na polnocy Chile.
Autobus rzeczywiscie dosc wygodny, z rozkladanym siedzeniem (nawet da sie wyspac). Po drodze obsluga autobusu serwuje posilki, nie jest zle. A pustynia sie zaczyna zaraz po opuszczeniu stolicy i trwa do granicy z Peru. Zmieniaja sie tylko odcienie pustyni. Czasem jest piaszczyscie, czasem kamieniscie. Caly czas pusto. Po przebyciu Chile wzdłuż mamy wrazenie, ze w tym kraju poza stolica i kilkoma miastami na polnocy nie ma nic a nic (poza pustynia).
W Santiago dowiedzielismy sie przez przypadek, ze narodowa potrawa Chilijczykow sa hotdogi. Troche trudno w to bylo uwierzyc na poczatku ale po kilku dniach spedzonych w stolicy mozemy potwierdzic, ze to fakt. Hotdogowe budki, stragany, hotdogowe restauracje, bardziej i mniej luksusowe, wylacznie hotdogowe. Hotdogi z avokadowym sosem, na dwadziescia roznych sposobow. Kto by pomyslal?
Kolejne zaskoczenie kulinarne. Wczesniej, w Buenos Aires, zaskoczyla nas ilosc pizzerii (zamiast oczekiwanych slynnych argentynskich stekow), na kazdym rogu pizzeria. Z naszych obserwacji wynika, ze tradycyjna kuchnia argentynska (i chilijska) w duzych miastach przegrywa niestety z fastfoodem.
Miasto Arica na granicy z Peru mialo byc naszym jednodniowym postojem przed wyprawa w kierunku Cuzco i Machu Picchu... Niestety na naszej drodze do Peru pojawily sie...
...miny
tak, miny przeciwpancerne i przeciwpiechotne, roznorodne...
i tak zamiast wyprawy do Cuzco utknelismy w Arice przez tydzien. Skad sie wziely miny na drodze? Otoz najwieksze od dekad opady deszczu w gornych regionach Andow rozwscieczyli rzeki, ktore w rezultacie wyplukaly zakopane w latach siedemdziesiatych (podczas granicznych konfliktow miedzy Peru a Chile) miny. I tak oto zamkneito nam przed nosem granice...
//////////////
/////////////
//////////// ENGLISH
////////////
////////////
We have travelled Chile from the south to the very north – over 4000 kilometers. The first half of the journey from Patagonia to Santiago was made by plane. Flying in Chile is a memorable experience as the plane functions similar to the bus. There were a few stops before we reached our destination. On each stop some passengers are disembarking some are boarding the plane. Few takeoffs and landings within one flight can actually give you a headache!
We made first 2 thousand kilometers in 4 hours. The next 2 thousand kilometers from Santiago to Arica (at the border with Peru) took 30 hours. We were tempted to try a bus this time out of few reasons… Firstly to challenge the myth about the luxurious and comfy Chilean long distance buses. Secondly to see and experience the Atacama desert. And thirdly, of course because of the money.
The bus turned out to be comfy indeed. With foldable chair of a proper size it was even possible to have a decent nap. On the way we were served 2 dinners (twice non vegetarian, so it meant 4 portions for me). And the desert actually seemed to start right after Santiago and last until the Peruvian border. The only noticeable change to the landscape was shades of the desert. At times it was sandy, at times rocky. Always empty till the horizon. What we concluded after crossing Chile is that except for few cities it is a country of vast emptiness.
While in Santiago we accidentally discovered a traditional Chilean meal which was to our big surprise a hotdog. It is hard to believe but we can confirm that after roaming around Santiago for a couple of days hotdog stalls and fastfood outlets can be found all around the city. Hotdogs are offered in at least 15 different configurations. Most often with avocado sause. Who would think of Chile as a hotdog country?
It is actually our second culinary discovery in South America. Earlier during our trip we were surprised how difficult it is to find famous Argentinian steaks in Buenos Aires and how many pizzerias are visible all around town instead.
The near-border town of Arica was supposed to be a one day stop before heading towards Cuzco and Machu Piccu in Peru but unfortunately and unexpectedly the border was closed right in front of us due to…
…The landmines
Yes, that is correct. Anti-tank mines, anti-troops mines, all sorts of mines that were flushed onto the roads in the border region due to heavy torrential rains. Apparently some of the rivers carried the mines and that endangered the rail and road bridges. You are probably wondering what the hell are the mines doing nowadays at the Peru-Chile border. As we learned they were buried in the ground few decades ago during border conflict between these two countries and by today some are still waiting to be removed…
Crap!
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